Cotton is everywhere—our clothes, sheets, banknotes, and even medical supplies. Cultivated
for over 7,000 years, this natural fiber makes up nearly 40% of global textiles. But today, it
is under environmental scrutiny like never before.
The European Union’s Product Environmental Footprint (PEF) system is turning up the heat
on the cotton industry, pushing for stricter sustainability measures. While this aims to reduce
the fiber’s environmental impact, it also raises tough questions. Millions of farmers across
the world—especially in China, India, and the U.S., the top three producers—depend on
cotton for their livelihoods. For smaller economies like Benin, Burkina Faso, and Mali, cotton
is not just an industry; it is the backbone of national exports. In Benin alone, it accounts for
half of the country’s total export income, supporting 250,000 farming families.
Switching to alternative crops is not as simple as it sounds. Cotton thrives in specific
subtropical climates where few other crops can grow. Many regions lack the right seeds,
irrigation systems, or infrastructure to make a transition. Generations of farmers have built
their expertise around this single crop. In places like West Africa and South Asia, abandoning
cotton would mean losing a lifeline.
Meanwhile, the EU is pushing for a “circular economy,” emphasizing recycling and material
reuse. But its environmental assessments do not always tell the whole story. Synthetic
fabrics, often promoted as a greener alternative, shed microplastics into the
environment—an issue largely overlooked in current sustainability frameworks. Yes, cotton
requires a lot of water and relies on pesticides, but the industry is not standing still.
Programs like Better Cotton Initiative and Cotton Made in Africa are helping farmers use less
water and adopt more eco-friendly practices. Organic cotton farming is also on the rise,
eliminating synthetic chemicals and improving soil health.
Technological advances are making a difference. Precision agriculture and improved
fertilizers are helping farmers boost yields while protecting the environment. When managed
correctly, modern fertilizer techniques enhance soil fertility and make cotton farming more
sustainable.
The road ahead is not easy, but the industry is evolving. Balancing cotton’s environmental
impact with the livelihoods it supports is a complex challenge—one that requires continuous
innovation and collaboration across the supply chain.